After the Muslin
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After the Muslin - Finishing the Pattern

This  is a collection of various tips to take you muslin into a final pattern.

If you've spent a lot of time making the pattern, it is a shame to just use it once and pitch it away.

At minimum, on the main piece, write the date and your measurements on that day, what the pattern is... as well as anything else you might want to know when you find these fabric scraps later.

To really preserve it, you should label all your pieces better and leave nothing to mind.  All grain lines, secify seam allowances, any ease comments.  Don't forget to mark all registry marks.  Do not assume you'll remember that the red dot on one piece matches up to the slash on the other.

If you are going to be cutting numerous copies, put it on heavier pattern paper.  (see below for examples).    Label all pattern pieces, including the facings

Also write up a one sheet set of notes about the pattern, and print out a picture.  Make notes on the fabric requirements Stuff this and the pattern in a large gallon size zip loc baggy.  Zam!  You will have a complete pattern that is exactly what you want and fits you exactly!

Pattern paper

Some leave their muslin on fabric but most prefer a stiffer paper.  On the opposite side, tissue paper tears and doesn't stand up.


My patterns tend to be muslin mock-ups that then become the lining. 

If I want to have an actual pattern for future reference, then I use "red dot paper".  It's not actually paper, per se, but more like an interfacing (and often found near the interfacing in a fabric store).  I like it because it is soft and bends somewhat like fabric, can be pinned, and is marked off in 1 inch squares, which is useful for drafting.

== Diana

I use tissue paper when tracing off patterns/making my own based on something else. If it's something I'm going to trace a lot (like the SW Imperial officer's jacket), I use brown packaging paper because it's fairly sturdy. Good when you have to trace one piece four different times.

== Rachael H.

I use heavy sew-in interface when I'm going to make a keeper pattern that I've had to fuss with. I can mark everything on it, pin into it easily, it doesn't fray or give paper cuts.  I have a roll of the stuff!


You can buy rolls of "pattern" patter in a few of the larger fabric stores and some of the larger sewing retailers on line.  It is not cheep but is less than interfacings.  

It has a grid of one inch squares.  Normally printed in something like like blue so that it doesn't obscure your pencil markings.

The paper weight is about that of regular copy paper, so the one bad thing is that it can give you paper cuts.  Most economic.

== Cat

Pattern Modification & Tips | Fabric Techniques | Fabric Embellishment | All About Armor | Leather Working | Vambraces to Gloves | Weapon Tips | Shoe Tips | Metalwork and Crowns | Working with Clay | Casting Belt Buckle | Casting Small Props | Pipe Making Tips

LOTR Home | Up | Make a Muslin | After the Muslin | Fabric Nap | Estimate Fabric | Modify Necklines | Sizing Up a Pattern | Pattern Fitting Issues | Rolled Collar Pattern | Modify Sleeves | Making a Doll Muslin

This page was last updated 04/22/08