Pattern adjustments and fabric basics
The underlayers of the Snow Queen are based on Folkwear's Empire Dress. I
wanted to modify the pattern so that it would adjust up and down in size since I
planned to have a friend model the dress. First, I closed up the back then
I substituted a laced ribbon for the fixed gathers in the neck line and the
bust.
I always preach to
make a
muslin to check the fit of a pattern. I mocked up the bodice section
in old sheets, but wanted to check the whole fit before I made up the "princess
dress". I had some striped baby blue fabric I'd gotten on sale for $1.11 a
yard. So, I used it to make up the whole dress. (And glad I did because I
discovered some sleeve issues that had to be adjusted in the final dress.)
The mock-up fit well enough so I finished it with the short puff sleeves from
the pattern. I added a ribbon edged belt and then spent an afternoon of
craziness spacing out a zigzag ruffle. When done, I had a serviceable
little regency day dress that adjusted up and down 3 sizes.
Second, I made the slip out of white cotton, expanding it so it handled about
5 sizes. The shoulder straps are only wide enough to handle the lace.
The last step was to make the princess gown out of my silky periwinkle.
The only part of the dress that shows is the front lace point and the narrow
pointed long sleeves. For this I modified the pattern again. The
sleeves were widened out a bit at the top to give an elegant look and balance
the heavy lace that would trim the top. The sleeves were extended below my wrist
so they could be pushed back and crinkled. The inside of the wrist was
slit open to accommodate different size wrists. The neckline in
front must point up... so I added about 2" to the center point and redrafted
that section. During construction, both the bodice and the sleeves
were lined in cotton to give more body.
All fabrics and trims are pre-washed so that these layers just go in the
washer and dryer.
Made from cotton. It is the basic underlayer. It will protected
the rest of the costume layers and washes very easily
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| Fitting the dress: First the bust
ribbon is tied tight |
The neck line ribbon is tightened. Tuck
the cord to the inside |
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| The ribbon will cause the neckline to round a
bit, but that is fixed by just pulling the dress and slip to the corner and
adjusting the shoulder slightly. Gravity and the pattern handles the
rest. |
The puff sleeve is also adjusted by ties that
can be tucked. |
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| Here is the dress with the adjustable ribbon
belt. The belt is just a couple layers of fabric with heavy
interfacing then a wide strip of ribbon edged in narrow pink |
There are thread belt loops on the sides. |
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| The outfit is completed with a simple ribbon
and rose choker and fan. |
Close-up of the hem detailing |
