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Mourning Gown Trim Details

Neck edge trimming looks to be about 2 1/2 inches wide and made from heavy gold bullion trim that is on a red background. The trim either has a thin dotted edge of gold or there is a very fine trim on the edge.

Pictures up close


Neck trim detail	Neck trim, another enhancement



Armband detail	Armband detail	While you cannot see the pattern, you can see the depth of the beading. Also can see the fine seared edge on the veil.

(or high rez here)

Bead pattern explained

by Maggie / Padawan's Guide and Aimee

Bullion embroidery has repeating pattern, about 4" long.
The Thistles / Peacock
- The pattern has purple/gray thistle-like flowers with 4 rows of iridescent beads in center of the thistle.
- The thistle has stem that curves and becomes mixed in with leaf designs. There are more beads and/or tiny sequins mixed in with the leaf designs.
- There are 3 thistle flowers on each side of neckline
- On the Left side of dress (as if you were in it), the thistles face down and they continue on the right side facing up.
The bullion embroidery is done on a red fabric, NOT velvet.

Links to pics
- Magazine Cover
  - http://www.lovelylivtyler.com/articles/images/2002decgwdcover.jpg
    - Best CU shot of the trim, even if we only get a bit on the side
- Portrait shot in MCU
  - http://www.fantasyplanet.cz/lotr/picture_show.asp?id=3647&obr_url=../gfx/pictures_clanky/lotr_gal_velky_20021231144236240.jpg
    - best of the overall pattern and it's repeat

Cover of Stern magazine
- http://www.theonering.net/movie/scrapbook/large/5653
  - cu, high rez, slow load
  - can just see a bit of the trim... nice detail
Cover of Wide Screen Magazine
- http://www.lovelylivtyler.com/showpic.html?url=articles/images/2002decgwdcover.jpg&title=News&text=German_;WideScreen;_Cover_-_December_2002
  - ecu, high rez
  - can just see a bit of the trim
Standing at the foot of the tomb - veil blows - long Arwen and full tomb
- http://www.warofthering.net/quintessential/movieshots_ttt/lurtz_fyc_arwenaragorn.jpg
  - long shot - textured
  - shows how short the train is
  - shows length of veil

Preliminary Pattern


See the iridescent "thistles". 4 rows of beads	Pattern run's down one side and up the other. This is half the width of the full trim.	See the thistles, they run one way on the lower half and the other way on the upper

Notes on what we're seeing	One repeat of the pattern, drawing by Maggie
	Aimee's breakout of the pattern. (This is a preliminary that shows you now to break it down. Anita's final sketch is on the bottom.) A) Gold Fabric B) Gold Thread C) Peacock: 4 rows iridescent beads (also called thistle) D) Red base fabric E) Small gold sequins on the ends of gold cord F) Darker bronze coiled cord / caterpillars G) The pattern repeat

For an introduction on getting starting doing the bouillon embroidery, Maggie's put together an intro page.

Trim from Scratch

Read about how Maggie made hers

http://www.costumersguide.com/mourning_trim.shtml

The definitive study is coming from Anita... but it's currently a work in progress.

Final Pattern

	A. Wool or chenille thread B. Seed beads (iridescent iris green/purple) C. Bright bullion/purl D. Bright or wire bullion/purl (looks different in different pictures, I'll go for bright...) E. Bright bullion/purl or gold thread? Maybe even checked bullion? F. A tad more tarnished bullion/purl G. Wire bullion/purl (not bright)

Seed beads:
- We're not sure if they're green iris or purple iris
- http://www.gardenofbeadin.com/catalog.php?page=4&category=11/0%20Iridescent%20%26%20Metallic
- http://www.gardenofbeadin.com/catalog.php?page=6&category=11/0%20Iridescent%20%26%20Metallic
Some starting notes
- bullion and purl threads are metal threads of a variety of diameters, hollow in the middle and
  available in different finishes and degrees of shine. After measuring and calculating a lot, I figured out that the threads used on the original embroidery must have a diameter of about 1,8mm (remember: "about"=can not be 100% sure). That's why I chose purls of this size, in two different finishes (shiny and non-shiny). That there are definitely two different shines can be seen in most pictures. I believe there's a third, more tarnished, purl version in the original embroidery also. This is only used on small parts, and I plan on tarnishing those parts in some way myself. Purls are embroidered with a beeswaxed polyester or silk thread, over a padding of felt or thick cotton thread. More layers of padding gives a more 3-dimensional effect.
- For more info on goldwork, see http://www.berlinembroidery.com.
- Anita's web site note: http://www.aniron.no/fastcms?id=1865 , in Norwegian .

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This page was last updated 04/22/08