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Making an Elvish Petal Sleeve
= by Elizabeth / Emc^2
This creates those long petal wrapped sleeves that we see
on a number of the elf costumes.
Start with a long sleeved sleeve pattern. If you need to make
adjustments for fit, make them first, before doing the petal wrap changes.
It must fit properly at both the arm hole and be the correct length.
Do confirm that you have the proper range of motion in your sleeve. You can
begin with either a one piece or two piece pattern.
If you are going to inserting a tighter undersleeve in the same
armscye, make sure to fit the undersleeve first and do all fittings with
both sleeves.
Try on a pinned-up sleeve pattern. Mark where petal overlap is to be at
wrist. This point will probably be forward, on the front of the arm, not the
center of the sleeve piece.
Pictures of the patterns show
steps. Click the pics for a larger image. |
Instructions and labels for the diagrams |
Basic pattern when you start with the Single Sleeve Pattern Piece
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A) Center of Sleeve cap
B) Grainline
C) Underarm
D) Armscye seamline
E) Sleeve Cap
F) Wrist
Note, double notch designates the back of the
sleeve and the single notch the front of the sleeve for all diagrams
on this page.
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Basic pattern when you start with Two-Piece Sleeve Pattern
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A) Center of Sleeve Cap
B) Grainline
C) Underarm
D) Armscye seamline
E) Sleeve Cap
F) Wrist
Starting with a Two-Piece
Pattern:
Release the pinned-up seam at the front of the underam piece. Leave the
back seam pinned or taped. Ignore the wrinkles.
Mark1 pattern
Take Piece A, and pin or tape it along the seamline to Piece B
Ignoring
wrinkles, from this point on. It doesn't matter if you started from a
one- or two-piece pattern.
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Try Sleeve Mockup
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*) Original Mark
Try Pinned-up sleeve pattern. Mark where petal overlap is to be at
wrist.
This point will probably be forward, on the front of the arm, not the
center of the sleeve piece.
Reminder:
If you need to make adjustments for fit, make them first, before doing
the petal wrap changes.
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One Piece Pattern:
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One Piece Pattern: A) Piece A
B) Piece B
C) Cut here
*) Mark
Draw a straight line parallel to the grainline, at the mark * at the mark you
made where the petal cut should be. Cut the pattern
apart along this line.
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Two-piece pattern:
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Two-Piece Pattern:
A) Piece A
B) Piece B
C) Cut here
*) Mark
D) wrinkles!
Release the pinned-up seam at the front of the underarm piece.
Leave the back seam pinned or taped.
Ignore the wrinkles.
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Mark 1
pattern
Ignoring wrinkles, from this point on, it doesn't matter if you started
from a one-piece or a two-piece pattern
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A) Piece A
B) Piece B
C) Cut here
Mark 1 Pattern: Take Piece A, and pin or tape it along the seam line to
Piece B
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What it
looks like when you retrace your cut bits of pattern
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A) Underarm
B) Grainline
Trace the Mark 1 pattern, smoothing out the underarm and wrist
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Add the extra
wrap extensions on either side.
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A) trace extension from
Piece A
B) trace extension from Piece B
Matching along the line of your original cut, trace the sleeve cap and
wrist edges to create extensions.
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The over wrap
pattern finalized.
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A) Draw gentle curves from the upper extension to the point you
originally marked for the overlap. Extend these along the back and
bottom.
Pin and/or baste the two points marked * and along the sleeve cap seam
where the extensions overlap.
B) Grainline
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Coat
Mock-up
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A) Sleeve joined to coat mockup
Try on the sleeve; set it into your coat mock-up to be sure you haven't
messed up the armscye seam.
This sketch shows very much what the Mark 2, as drawn, would produce.
The sleeve would be the same width as your original pattern, but will
open a bit at the overlap and will be a bit longer in back.
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If you're happy with it, add hem (or seam if you're going to line the
sleeve) allowances and make up in your real fashion fabric. |
Troubleshooting and extra modifications:
too short or too long
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A) Original
B) Shorten
C) Lengthen
D) Pointy sleeve edge with tassel
If sleeve is too short or
long:
Extend (or shorten) the lowest point, behind your elbow.
You may also need to modify the overlaps.
Sleeve edge shape wrong:
You can do anything like with the lower sleeve edge- straight, pointed,
dagged, etc.
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too wide
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Sleeve too wide:
Take up darts to narrow the sleeve.
A) Darts
Keep the darts closed as you cut out the next version.
The longer the dart, the tighter the upper portion of hte sleeve. A
short dart will effect only the sleeve edge.
Try to keep the darts parallel to the grainline. Many small darts are
better than one huge one.
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too much (or not enough) overlap
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Too much (or not enough) overlap:
Add or remove fabric at the overlap extensions.
A) Add
B) Remove
By adding on one side and removing from the other, you can change the
location and/or angle of the overlap.
The modification shown would move the overlap toward the back at
the armscye, but leave it in about the same place at the wrist.
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too narrow
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Sleeve too Narrow: A) Sleeve Cap Area
B) Underarm
C) Armscye Seam Line
D) Grainline
Identify the sleeve cap areas of your pattern.
Draw several vertical lines, parallel to the grainline from the armscye seamline to
the sleeve edge.
One of these lines should be at the center (top, peak) of the sleeve
cap, and the rest spaced evenly from there.
Cut on these lines. Do not cut through
the armscye seam line!
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too narrow (cont)
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too narrow (cont)
A) Slits
B) Grainline
C) Armscye seam line
Spread each slit, keeping the centers parallel to the grainline as much
as possible (i.e.: spread the same amount on each side of the cut line).
Pivot at the armscye seam line, so that the seam allowance buckles and
wrinkles, but the armscye seam itself doesn't change.
Redraw the lower sleeve edge curves, mock-up and try on before cutting
real fabric.
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Check out other sleeve pattern modifications in
this section and over in the character
sections for individual costumes.
Make a Muslin | After the Muslin | Fabric Nap | Estimate Fabric | Modify Necklines | Sizing Up a Pattern | Pattern Fitting Issues | Rolled Collar Pattern | Modify Sleeves | Making a Doll Muslin
LOTR Home | Up | Making Elvish Petal Sleeves | Creating a Half Wrap Sleeve | Enlarge Sleeve's Upper Arm
This page was last updated
04/22/08
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