 | Unstructured jacket, long sleeves of average tightness, triangular
edge detail |
| Medium Slate blue. |
| Seams at sides, open in front
 | Length, below hips |
| Neck finish is a band of the same fabric as the jacket, about 1" wide.
Goes from the front tip, around the neck to the other front tip end. |
| We never see the coat closed... but guessing it's a bit of a "V"
wrap. |
| knotted thread belt loops on the two side seams, at waist |
| 1" wide belt with squared oval center clasp
 | clasp break apart in center. |
| aprox same color as the coat |
| design is just pressed in. Looks caste |
|
|
| Set in sleeves, narow
| Sleeve hem, 1", hand hemmed. |
| There's weird triangular detail on the edges of the sleeves.
| Triangle insert on sleeve with top stitching on the inside.
| starts up one inch from the edge of the sleeve |
|
| Some kind of triangular flag hanging from the jacket. Edge
matches, top edge doesn't. Not sure what is happening.
|
| Not seen on screen only at exhibit. |
|
|
| Pockets on front with top stitched triangle decoration. |
| Fabric???
| Thin, soft hand, fine knit (confirmed), unknown fiber content. |
|
Finishing the blouse and Making the Ruffles
When constructing the blouse, stay stitch just inside the
neck seam line. Treat it gently. Light fabrics react badly to
bias cut if you're rough with them.
The blouse front is finished with circular ruffles.
Straight gathered ruffles cannot be substituted without changing the look.
Follow the steps and don't take short cuts or you'll be finding out how much
trouble bias work is.
Width of the circle??? There will either be two or
three cut per fabric width. Someone is going to have to test this to
figure out which it is.
Estimate the inside circle by adding 1/4 inch to the outer
edge (for the zig-zag) and 5/8ths to the inside (for the seam
allowance. Measure from the outer circle towards the center by the
length of the ruffle. Mark the inner circle. Cut out the outside
circle only. Cut just before you finish the edge.
How many circles required??? This can be calculated by
measuring the stitch line, i.e. inside circle -5/8". You need enough
to go from shoulder seam to should seam. Add for seam allowances.
Circles should be joined with a narrow ziz-zag stitch to make one continuous
length.
Finish the outer edge: Zig-zag the edge by sewing half over
the edge with a narrow zig-zag.
Stabilize the inner edge. Put in a row a stay
stitching just inside the stitch line.
Cut out the inner circle and make one cut up the side of the
circle. Do these cuts just before you sew or the fabric. Finish
the cut buy making one cut to separate the closed circle.
Join circles together with a narow seam allowance.
Then zig-zag finish the final edge... sew up from the outer edge to the
center.
Just before joining the ruffle to the blouse, check the neck
fit. If it's a little gappy, or if you want a snugger fit. Run a
gather stitch just inside what will be your stitch line on the blouse neck.
Ease it just a bit especially on the lower third.
Join layers together top right side up, ruffle right side
up. Bias tape face down. Stitch.
Check the fit on last time.
Depending on the fabric, you either want to just snip down
the seam allowance to about 1/4. Cut very cleaning. No need to
clip the curves. If it's really thick, grade some of the seam allowances,
but you should be OK
Wrap the bias binding over the edge, turn under seam
allowance and stitch by hand.
All Finished.
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