Dinner Outfit

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Dinner Outfit

Version 1.2 - 2/14/06

Carl feeds Ann and explains his proposal for her to be his staring lady.  She just much agree to leave immediately.  The costume chosen here makes her look much more vulnerable.  The magnificent coat is gone and she now is costumed simply in a "V" necked blouse with a light unstructured jacket. and dark blue skirt.  The outfit is finished at that point with her cloche hat and grey suede shoes.


bulletJacket Description
bullet"V" Neck Blouse Description
bulletFinishing the blouse and making the Ruffles


Her whole outfit can be seen here.  Note that while all the blues are in the same color family, they're all a bit different from each. Note how thin the blue jacket is.  What looks like it might be a bra band, is a low slip with spaghetti straps. 
Note how full the ruffles are on the blouse. They are only on the front half of the outfit, or we would seen them under her thin jacket. Can see the top button. A better view of the jacket, the colors are close to the real colors, but still a bit too much yellow. 

Jacket Description

bulletUnstructured jacket, long sleeves of average tightness, triangular edge detail
bulletMedium Slate blue.
bulletSeams at sides, open in front
bulletLength, below hips
bulletNeck finish  is a band of the same fabric as the jacket, about 1" wide.  Goes from the front tip, around the neck to the other front tip end.
bulletWe never see the coat closed... but guessing it's a bit of a "V" wrap.
bulletknotted thread belt loops on the two side seams, at waist
bullet1" wide belt with squared oval center clasp
bulletclasp break apart in center.
bulletaprox same color as the coat
bulletdesign is just pressed in.  Looks caste
bulletSet in sleeves, narow
bulletSleeve hem, 1", hand hemmed.
bulletThere's weird triangular detail on the edges of the sleeves.
bulletTriangle insert on sleeve with top stitching on the inside.
bulletstarts up one inch from the edge of the sleeve
bulletSome kind of triangular flag hanging from the jacket.  Edge matches, top edge doesn't.  Not sure what is happening. 
bulletNot seen on screen only at exhibit.
bulletPockets on front with top stitched triangle decoration.
bulletThin, soft hand, fine knit (confirmed), unknown fiber content.
Jacket never seen closed or belted, except on exhibit. (Pockets missing from this sketch.

Sleeve detail, a bit of a guestimate on how the triangles work together.

Patch pocket.  2"-3" from edge of the coat.  One inch up from the bottom.  Approximately 4 inches wide.
Belt buckle.  Separates in the center.  1 1/2 tall, 2" wide.  Belt about 1".   

"V" Necked Blouse Description

bulletPowder blue blouse with "V" neck. 
bulletBack of the neck is high
bulletRuffles are attached to the neck in the front only (no sign of them in back)
bulletThese are circle ruffles, 4 or 5 inches wide.  Edge is finished with a clean zig-zag.
bulletThe thin bias binding finishes off the neck in front and back
bulletOpens in front
bulletSmall buttons in same fabric as the blouse made from little flat brass circles with fabric stitched around it.
bullet4 buttons, top in thread loop, bottom 3 on pointed edges.
bullet3 deep pin tucks on either side, decorate stitching on top, 1/8" "U"s
bulletFabric is thin, but not opaque.  A woven with a soft hand. 
bulletAssumed it has short sleeves (since most of her other blouses are short sleeved and we don't see any bunching on the jacket arm.)
bulletAssuming that it has only side seams and just slides over the head.
bulletLength of blouse is probably lower hip, probably worn tucked.
Front of blouse. Center edges of the ruffle are hand turned under.  Bottom edge is a narrow surge.  Button spacing... top of "V", under the ruffle, one in the clear, 4th at the waist.  Note V shaping for the bottom 3 buttons, top is hooked on a loop and probably another (or a snap) hidden under the ruffle at the top right. Just some of the blouse detail.  Missing the top ruffle and no guess on the sleeves.  Either sleeveless or full length.  Unknown.  Circular ruffles only on front half of the shirt (confirmed).  Length is a guess.

Front button are a wave design.  Looks like it might be pin tucks.  (See detail below.)  Don't know how far up or down tucks go.  It would make sense that these bigger tucks are used to pull in the blouse so would be under bust though to just under the waist.

closer detail on the blouse.  Still not 100% confirmation of pin tucks.  Decorative stitch is by machine, about 1/8" "U"s.  

Finishing the blouse and Making the Ruffles

When constructing the blouse, stay stitch just inside the neck seam line.  Treat it gently.  Light fabrics react badly to bias cut if you're rough with them.

The blouse front is finished with circular ruffles.  Straight gathered ruffles cannot be substituted without changing the look.  Follow the steps and don't take short cuts or you'll be finding out how much trouble bias work is.

Width of the circle???  There will either be two or three cut per fabric width.  Someone is going to have to test this to figure out which it is.  

Estimate the inside circle by adding 1/4 inch to the outer edge  (for the zig-zag) and 5/8ths to the inside (for the seam allowance.  Measure from the outer circle towards the center by the length of the ruffle.  Mark the inner circle.  Cut out the outside circle only.  Cut just before you finish the edge.

How many circles required??? This can be calculated by measuring the stitch line, i.e. inside circle -5/8".  You need enough to go from shoulder seam to should seam.  Add for seam allowances.  Circles should be joined with a narrow ziz-zag stitch to make one continuous length.

Finish the outer edge: Zig-zag the edge by sewing half over the edge with a narrow zig-zag.

Stabilize the inner edge.  Put in a row a stay stitching just inside the stitch line.

Cut out the inner circle and make one cut up the side of the circle.  Do these cuts just before you sew or the fabric.  Finish the cut buy making one cut to separate the closed circle. 

Join circles together with a narow seam allowance.  Then zig-zag finish the final edge... sew up from the outer edge to the center.

Just before joining the ruffle to the blouse, check the neck fit.  If it's a little gappy, or if you want a snugger fit.  Run a gather stitch just inside what will be your stitch line on the blouse neck.  Ease it just a bit especially on the lower third.

Join layers together top right side up, ruffle right side up. Bias tape face down.  Stitch.

Check the fit on last time.

Depending on the fabric, you either want to just snip down the seam allowance to about 1/4.  Cut very cleaning.  No need to clip the curves. If it's really thick, grade some of the seam allowances, but you should be OK    

Wrap the bias binding over the edge, turn under seam allowance and stitch by hand.

All Finished.

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