Eowyn's Green Gown
alternate name - Edoras Stable GownIdentifying photo:
Eowyn is seen racing up the steps to see her cousin, Theodred, son of Theoden, who has been severely injured. It’s a very fast and very brief glimpse of the gown in motion. We do not see this gown very clearly because the lighting is very dark. We also see the dress in the dark room of his bed chamber, but see little more of the gown.
We’ve seen many pictures of her posed with her hands in front of her, which covered up the front skirt section. ‘The Art of The Two Towers’ book has an image of her posed lifting away a panel at the front. There is also photo of the design art in this book that shows the same thing.
Green Gown Quick Index
The green gown first looks to be made up of two layers – an overdress made of dark green cotton velvet, and an underdress made of olive green and gold leaf design brocade. However closer inspection of the dress on exhibit leads us to feel this dress is one connected layer with "cheats"... probably to facilitate the layers staying in perfect alignment for shooting
The main part of the dress is made of dark olive green crushed cotton velvet. It has a thick, dense nap but looks very soft. The fabric has been heavily aged. It has quite wide, somewhat low boat neck line. The dress fits tight to the low curved front. The skirt flares out with a little bit of a train.
The secondary fabric is used for the under skirt, the yoke, bag lining the sleeves and the inner sleeves. The fabric is a green brocade with silver flowers. It is used on the reversed side and has been washed (and probably dyed). The washing has caused the threads to crinkle up in different ways to give it that very weird textured look.
The "bodice" section has no darts and is only fitted at the sides. It doesn't actually come to a point at the waist, just dips into a curve. We have confirmed that there is an invisible zipper in the back. It goes all the way up though the attached yoke.
The boat neck is edged with 2 bands of wide metallic trim that are each about 1 inch (2.5cm) or more wide, and 2 inches (5cm) wide in total. These two rows of trim are stitched down individually with a bit of overlap. The inner row was laid down first, then the outer layer that goes all the way to the edge of her shoulder. (Note, this second layer would have to be attached, after the sleeves were sewn on.)
This is a gold bullion trim on a black or dark green net. The pattern is leafy and edged. (Scroll farther down to see our finds for the trim.)
The trim has been aged and may have even been dyed with the dress. The strips look like they have been laundered and aged while on the dress. If you look very closely, you can see the trim has just been machine stitched on near the edges on both sides.
The yoke is a continuous-rolled yoke above the boat neckline of the green velvet that give the gown a high collar that flares up and folds back down about 3 inches (7.5cm) , It is open in the front to show Eowyn's small gold flower necklace . It is attached to the neckline of the green velvet gown.
The yoke fabric is the same as is used on the underskirt and sleeves, except this fabric has been machine quilted with gold thread. Diamond pattern is about 1 inch high and 3/4 inch wide. Quilting stitch is long.
A coordinating metallic trim, but one with flowers, appears to be used as an overlay on both sides of the collar. The trims have been toned down/antiqued and slightly aged to blend with the rest of the gown.
There are two sleeves... narrow inner sleeve and flared outer sleeve. The sleeves are set in. Though the top of the seam is covered by the wide neckline trim, if you look at the gown carefully you can see the seam lines.
Outer sleeves: It has classic bell sleeves that are bag-lined, with a turned back cuff that reach mid calf when her hands are at her side. They are tight at the top and very full at the bottom starting the flare just above the elbow. The flare line is very straight and not curved like the elven sleeves. It is a one part sleeve, not two.
The sleeves fold back maybe 3-4" reaching her fingertips, to reveal that they are bag-lined in the same fabric as the underskirt. The fold is top stitched down all along the sleeve so the turn amount is even.
Inner sleeves: There are tight inner sleeves that reach to the wrist, constructed of the same brocade fabric as the underdress. The thin hem has been turned under and hand stitched.
We only see the inner sleeves when Eowyn kneels at her cousin's sickbed. We cannot tell if they are laced at the wrist, but most of her casual outfits are. Nor can we tell if these are full sleeves or if they switch to a thinner fabric to run up the arm and sew into the armhole. Best guess... they're constructed like the Coronation gown's inner sleeves.
The sleeves are tightened on the underside by a thin braided cord just a bit darker green than the outer gown.
The outer skirt has two main sections. The front panel which is turned back and pulled up and then the main skirt. This part falls smoothly over the hips in a funnel shape and has a small train no more than about 6 inches.
The 8 - 10 inches (20 - 25 cm) wide front panel overlap the edges of the front skirt, therefore this panel must be an added piece. And since we can see a seam where the inside lining attaches we can presume that the panel attaches here too.
The velvet overskirt is likely trapezoidal in shape (panels narrow at the top, wider at the bottom) as there are no gathers the way a straight skirt would show. The skirt leaves a wide gap in the front, roughly the space between the front hip bones (maybe 8"), the gap is covered by a lined front panel which overlaps the skirt by an inch or so on each side. If the panel is hanging down, it looks like two slits on each side - just like her Funeral Dress. NOTE: the front of the skirt is also bag-lined with the same revered brocade as elsewhere.
FRONT PANEL TIES
There is a set of braided cord ties (knotted at the ends) that appear to hold
up the front panel - exposing the underskirt. Possible placement has the ties on
the side of the panel and a loop on the "waist" seam.
The underskirt is made from the same reversed brocade. It attached at the waist seam with the outer skirt and it's lining.
There may be a split in this underdress to give extra movement but the pictures of her bounding up the stairs are so dark and quick that it is hard to tell. However, she has a lot of movement, so it's possible.
The gold medallion belt is the same as worn with the the funeral dress.
There are three different ways to go on this dress for reconstruction.
1) Make this dress with all the movie cheat... one piece, skirts attached together. This means you're going to have to make a muslin and do lots of pattern adapting. It's not as complex as some and you can get some starts from patterns (see step 3)
2) If you are looking for a medieval feel, make this dress as two parts. The underdress of brocade and shaped like a high necked, collared shift. The outer gown is boat necked and has the double split skirt at front. This is not technically any "period", just has an old flavor to it.
3) To construct a simplified version (and still have the benefit of a pattern)... good old Simplicity pattern 9891 or Simplicity 4940 will get you fairly close. It has a yoke with flared collar. Keep the princess seams in the bodice. The neck yoke is already there. You'll need an underskirt. Don't run the seams on the front panel all the way down and they will imitate the flap.
Buying the Trim
The only place we've located this is at MJ Trim in New York City. (http://www.mjtrim.com )
We've found the exact.:
MJ Trim, its number is #950-26727 (Black-Gold bullion $39.98/yrd) - so you can call them (http://www.mjtrim.com ) You need between 1/3 and 1/2 yard.
This is not quite an exact match... but close enough. We're not going to estimate how much you need here because you need two rows around the velvet neck line.
Curve the trim by running a gather stitch on the top edge and slightly easing it in.
She wears a low heeled ankle boot. Two tone suede dark green, over light olive green. Laces on outside.